Short Break: Valencia's Renaissance

Valencia on Spain's eastern coast is experiencing a renaissance. Not only will Valencia host the 2007 America's Cup, the first held in Europe, it has caught up with other hip cities in Europe. The skyline has been embellished with everything from an impressive contemporary art museum to the sprawling Ciutat de les Arts i de les Cienes, Santiago Calatrava's swooping collection of white, organically contoured museums and theaters. The special charm of Valencia is a mix of Seville with its crowded cafes and tree-shaded plazas, the Moorish traces and ancient monuments of Granada as well as the tumultuous nightlife of Madrid. Yet this old city by the sea also has an identity all its own, as just one spin around town will attest.
Where to stay There are a few new upmarket desinger hotels that signals Valencia's change in fortunes. We recommend the Palau de la Mar, housed in a adjoning pair of eleganat 19th-century mansions, mingles grand marble entryways and staricases with 66 sleek rooms. The white walls, chocolate-brown floors, and antique tubs provide a tranquil respite from the glamourous streets.